SV Sens de la Vie - Arrival at the Kimberley Coast Berkley River

 

 We left Darwin making our way to cross the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf, named by sailors as “Blown Apart Gulf”, notorious for uncomfortable sea conditions.  

We prepared the boat and ourselves for the overnight passage to get across the gulf to the Western Australia Eastern coast line.  Our entry around Reverley Island and its many shoals and the entry as well as the rock and sand bars at the mouth of the Berkley River was challenging.  Timing with tidal heights needs special attention particularly for deep keel yachts like Sens de La Vie.  

Hearty Lamb shank soup was prepared and in the thermo pot, snack packs, thermos made for tea and coffee and inside the boat were all secured with our stuff safely stowed away so as to minimise flying objects in rough conditions. All safety gear checked, wet and cold weather sailing attire ready to go if weather turned bad and the usual engine and radio checks.

MV Sea Leaf, Brian and Sandra were crossing a little further north of our position so we had company for the crossing and even though they were some distance away we are still able to maintain contact by radio. Having another vessel close by is always good on big passages and particularly overnight crossings.  SV Cool Change, Matt and Lisa had left some 10 days before us, just after Darwin lock down was lifted, so we were hopeful we would catch up to them at the Berkley River.

Our other difficult Gulf passages of the Gulf of Carpentaria and Van Diemen’s Gulf have lived up to their reputation  as difficult passages, we expected this Gulf crossing to deliver its worst as the other crossings had done.

The Bonaparte Gulf on this occasion was benign. Winds were favorable at the start of the passage but very soon turned against us, requiring the iron sail(motor) to keep our course direction and timing to get to the entrance by early morning for correct tidal height to get over the river bar. A good passage that was not uncomfortable. 

Capt Teza did the night shift I kept him company for a while and went to bed at 10pm as my shift was at 2am in the morning. Relieving the Capt with a hot cuppa in hand sent him off to his dreamtime, with snacks to keep me awake, music and the stars my entertainment with constant checks on the navigational plotter and compass for course corrections.  Lost myself in thoughts of home, family and friends and then my excitement of finally reaching our destination - The Kimberley Coast.

The morning sun rose behind my shoulders and in the distant ahead on  the horizon the tell-tale haze that indicates land was ahead. Slowly emerging in all its glory were the red iron sand stone cliffs of Western Australia's Kimberley Coast.  

I was so excited and euphoric as the coastal scenery emerged from the morning sea mist and land haze.  I woke the Capt a little earlier than scheduled so we could share this special moment together. Capt Teza found me at the helm dancing to the soundtrack of Crocodile Dundee Movie, which was perfect music for our arrival moment.

Sea Leaf just popped up on the AIS (Automatic Identification System) on the Navigational Plotter, they were only a few miles north from us and our paths  crossed at Reverley Island, which marks the entry passage to the river.

As we converged to the entry passage we made contact with Sea Leaf . They went first into the passage around the island, Capt Brian giving us soundings of depth so we could follow his course was most helpful as the shallows and shoals of this passage does require zig-zagging to get to the mouth of river and then across a sandbar/reef that dries at low tide. With our draft of 2 meters we need a mid high tide or more to get into the Berkley. Charts and marine surveys are inadequate for most of the Kimberley with some areas still not surveyed which are displayed on the charts as blank grey areas.  In addition, the charts become inaccurate due to the impacts of sand bars shifting in the wet seasons.  At the time of writing this blog several weeks later in our adventure, I can report that careful attention traversing these waters  is required with  constant diligence to get tides and current information correct for any passage into rivers bays and inlets, most times we are making assumptions, edging very slowly doing our own survey with the depth sounder.  Your eyes are constantly on look out to the sea-scape and watching the soundings for depths. Our new depth sounder has a sonar scanner for the bottom, this is of great value to view structures under the water. Like very big boulders and reefs.

Our arrival was a very special moment. Planning and visioning this sailing destination for many years to finally arrive is a milestone. Many challenges along the way, seemingly at times against all odds, with health and boat issues, unplanned expenses, Covid lock downs and restrictions.  With separation from our family and friends, many times we doubted our resolve to undertake this adventure.

However. the magical times we have experienced along the way, since leaving home port on the Gold Coast in June 2020, erodes the doubt even with all the difficulties and challenges. If it was easy, everyone would do this adventure, it's not easy. It takes a lot of planning and preparation to traverse these waters safely and comfortably.

Both Capt Teza and I stayed steadfast almost willfully at times to keep pursuing the dream and our goals. With hope in our hearts, faith in our sailing abilities and a degree of determination to achieve the desire for a sailing adventure in remote wilderness coastal areas of Northern Australia, we persevered to get there and see what can only be explored from the sea. 

The Motley Tail End Cruisers with Matt & Lisa,  Sandra and Brian

Getting over the River bar safely and taking in the vista of the red cliffs of the river gorge - we both were in complete awe. Rounding the river bend close to the entry to Casuarina creek we were so excited to find Cool Change Matt and Lisa waiting at anchor.

Cool Change and Sens de La Vie together again 

Cool Change In the Berkley

On Board Sea Leaf

A great get together that night and very thankful to Matt and Lisa who chose to not show us photos of what was ahead of us further up the river, as they did not want to spoil our experience. They did give advice and helpful info such as, “to leave early in the morning to catch the best opportunity for reflections of the towering cliffs on still waters”, which is exactly what we did.

We left Sea Leaf at anchor as they were going to explore Casuarina Creek and Cool Change up anchored and departed the same morning for their next destination of King George River.  

SV Cool Change 

Casuarina Falls

Casuarina Creek Falls Berkley

Such is the way of travelling company at sea - individual, different sea vessels, interests and crew needs, all doing our own individual passage plans, sharing information, and assisting each other - sometimes together and other times apart. I guess that is where the expression “ Like Ships in the Night” comes from. The crew from Sea Leaf and Cool Change are wonderful company and they have enriched our experience with their good humor, camaraderie, hospitality, kindness and caring support.

 

Its really hard to explain in words what we saw and experienced, traversing this ancient river with its towering red cliffs either side reflecting in the waters giving you a reverse perspective. I will let the photos evoke some sort of idea what this felt like for us.

The Berkley River in all its wild beauty is an amazing and profound life experience that I will never forget and remains 11 weeks later when publishing this blog a most special moment of our Kimberley adventure. 

Perhaps the reason for its enduring impact on us was that it was our arrival to the Kimberley Coast, our first experience.  Finally we reached what we had visioned for many years. The Berkley River spirit captured our hearts, minds and soul validating our dream. The passage up the Berkley River is an unforgettable experience.

 

We spent 10 days in the Berkley exploring, fishing and soaking up the rugged beauty of this ancient land. 

I never got tired of just sitting and looking at the red cliffs watching the many hues of color, light and shade changing throughout the day and night.  The rock face formations, with the ever changing light, created a nature performance sculpture. A kaleidoscope of color shape and form that completely captivated me 24 hours of the day. The reflections on still waters provided reverse perspectives in intense living color.

Got to keep eye contact all the time

 

My early morning cuppa visit by this little chap

Birds and small bush rock wallabies inhabit the cliffs and shoreline as well as the resident crocodiles that cruised by, a small one came to visit one morning at the back of the boat whilst I had my morning coffee.

We anchored at the very top of the river close to a small waterfall and freshwater ponds which we explored. Climbing up cliffs only 10 meters and playing in the freshwater rock pools. 

Small water fall at the top end of the Berkley River

Washing day

This croc hung about near the rock pool where we did our washing

Enjoying our first walks up the waterfall cliffs to the fresh water pools

We also collected fresh water and did our washing.  

We have a desalination plant on board, turning salt water into pure water, but collecting water is part of the adventure and provides us with some entertaining tasks as we try and get water from a waterfall on some force into a water container.

Washing my Hair under the Waterfall

 

The nights are still, turning the river into black glass which becomes a mirror for the incredible starry night sky. This gives an experience of seemingly floating in the night sky. 

Night bush noises of creatures we did not see and my usual look at the back porch, (our stern sugar scoop) under lights to see what’s hanging about under our boat was always entertaining.  I am pleased to report it did not reveal any crocs hanging out on the back porch. 

Although you can see their eyes in the distance.  

I will mention often in future blogs about the "Fire in the Water" which is bio luminescence.  Watching the luminescence trails of thousand little lights in the water caused by the movement of fish, rays, dolphins at night is a magical sight.

After a couple of days we re-joined Sea leaf a little further down the river. We enjoyed lots of sundowners and shared  dinners on board their beautiful motor cruiser. 

Our anchorage at the top of the river had poor holding over rocks and tidal flows were changing - we decided to relocate to mud holding after a day or so. 

We spent the rest of our time exploring by dingy up little gorge inlets, such as the "amphitheatre”, fishing, catching bream and rock cod, enjoying the company of Brian and Sandra from SV Sea Leaf

On this occasion I did not climb the falls at Casuarina Creek as I was fearful of having an injury so early into our travels or putting my joints under stress that would impede my mobility.  The beginning of the climb is steep over much uneven ground of a rockslide.  My plan was to build up strength and confidence with small hikes and climbs gradually. We did explore the creek in our tender and saw crocs and birds.

Casuarina Creek Falls - Berkley

 My Crap Bird Photography

In this part of the country, I will be required to do a lot of hiking up cliffs to see indigenous art and get the views over the gorges.  

Not to mention just getting to shore can be tricky via mangroves, croc territory, mud and slippery rocks.  

Obstacles could limit exploring creeks

The falls were drying up as this was mid dry season, I was hopeful that some late falls of rain in April would have greeted us with more water flowing over the gorges. It would have been deafening and spectacular to see the falls in the wet season which you can do via helicopter.  No marine tourist activities are operational in the wet season, but a few independent sailors do brave the enormous volumes of water washing down these rivers in the wet season.

Matt from SV Cool Change has kindly allowed me to share some of his photos and drone footage for a bird’s eye view and perspective of this magnificent area. 

Exploring little Gorges and Creeks

Larger charter cruise ships such as The Kimberley Pearl and Ocean Dream came in and anchored up the mouth of the river and on occasions would be ferrying passengers up and down the river in large tenders, breaking the sounds of nature but that did not bother us. The tours passing us to get to the top of the Berkley were very short and the skippers and crew of these ships are most helpful with information and are available for any emergency. 

The Berkley River Luxury Resort is at the headland coming into the river and they also were ferrying guests about. 

Berkley Lodge at the Headland of the river

All skippers were respectful and slowed down as they passed. Indeed, Capt Brian of Sea Leaf was captured on cameras hauling in a large Queenie fish leaping out of the water, to the cheers of the tourists as they went past on one occasion.

We spent time just being in the moment together in this ancient timeless land, its beauty and serenity leaving us both amazed and inspired. It was, I believe, a validation and a reward moment, for a great achievement by both of us, to finally get here - inspiring us to continue exploring this ancient land and embrace all the adventures and magical moments.

 

We made passage plans with Sea Leaf over sundowners. Capt Teza took the portable depth sounder some five miles out to the bay on the tender to plot a track back out, so we did not have to go around Reverley Island and its many shoals saving us some considerable time to get to our next destination of the King George River.