I left my Bra at Percy's

Big Seas and Storms on Horizon

I left my Bra at Percy’s

Well not really my bra although perhaps the residents of Percy Islands could have made some use of my bra as a wind turbine energy device with my cup size.

My quest to craft a coconut bra for Sophie (see previous blog) has had a minor setback.  It would not really be a quest if I simply had to anchor off a remote island and pluck a coconut. I left the half crafted coconuts to make the bra at Middle Percy awaiting to be sanded and polished, very sad and disappointing.

We had to leave the Percy Group of Islands in a hurry,  the bad weather conditions and with no suitable anchorage to the prevailing wind and swells to shelter and anchor in relative safety.

This was a necessary decision to seek shelter and safety in clam waters of Island Head Creek some 50 nautical miles away and await a change in weather.  This decision was made after a very tiring night been on watch and in awful conditions under anchor.  We were anchored very close to a fringing reef and it can be very disturbing when you hear the waves crashing over the reef.  A the big swell puts a lot of pressure on the anchor. In such a small Coral Fringed bay with lots of bommies we only have a small time to react if we come off anchor before we hit the reef.

Crazy Capt Teza- Loving the Big Sail

We left early knowing our journey of 50 miles was going to be arduous against big seas, some waves hit the 5 metre mark  but we managed to have a good sail with an easterly wind. Sens de la Vie performed well under these conditions and whilst the heart was pumping with adrenalin I was pleased that I did not experience any heart stress or anxiety.  Got a good cardio workout even managed to get soup cooked in the galley but not without more bruising. Arrived tired at Island Head Creek at 3pm to the comfort of no swell and sheltered sandy bay.

Wind is still howling at Island Head Creek and you can hear the big seas crashing on the entry headland.

Big Sail day

Trying to beat the storms

A Lone Coconut Tree at Island Head Creek

MY quest for a Coconut Bra for Sophie the Trumpet Lady (see previous post) continues but indeed this may be more of a quest than I first envisioned chiefly as not many isolated islands under the management of National Parks and the environment Govt Depts. have coconut trees left on them.  Govt departments in control and management of these environments have de-nude some islands of coconut trees deeming them not to be native Australian flora.  Many arguments from lessee and land owners adjacent to National park controlled areas of islands have resulted in some groves remaining with debates “part of our heritage of early colonial settlement” or “tourism draw cards” and so forth. It would not be a tropical island without the odd coconut palm on its shore line.

Some say Torres strait islanders also planted coconuts as sustainable food source on their sea faring journey’s up and down the coast many centuries ago. Certainly, the coconut tree provides a lot of uses such as fuel, shelter and food.  Indeed, some coconut groves have just evolved from coconuts floated onto to shorelines naturally.  Compromises have been made by landholders and lessee’s of some of these islands, so don’t be surprised on your next visit to the islands you see little signs on the coconut trees with warnings about falling coconuts. I suspect that debating over environmental issues has been replaced by liability arguments over the past 10 years.

Certainly, walking under coconut trees can be dangerous as the coconut does not make a sound when it dislodges from its branches only a loud thud as it hits the ground. I personally experienced this in the Solomon’s with a near miss of a falling coconut.

Cutting our time short in the Percy Island group and with A layover for a couple of days in Island Head Creek means that we will change our sailing passage now to accommodate the Keppel Islands , Heron Island and Lady Musgrave weather permitting and with favorable winds.

Entering the calm waters of Island Head Creek Bay

Fish Guts & Burley- Tuesday 16th October

Blunt Bay North East Percy Island

After exploring Middle Percy Island and looking at the weather coming in from the south we spent a lazy afternoon back on the yacht doing a few chores and some fishing.

Fishing at Sunset at Middle Percy 

 As the night progressed the swell increased in the bay and we were rocking and rolling.  I got up at dawn having not slept much and decided to fish.  Caught some more bone fish which is really great sport fish and looks like a king whiting but with only one dorsal.  The fish as per its name is full of bones and flesh not good eating.  My bait was depleting so I decided to use some salami as fish love the smell of garlic.  With great effort I landed a 3ft long Pilot fish (sucker fish) Pelagic species known as Remora – that attach themselves to large sharks, mantra rays, whales and sometimes boats. The aborigines used to use these fish to catch turtles. They would tether the Remora so when they attached themselves to a turtle they would retrieve the Remora and the sought after Turtle.

I must say my balance has improved as I managed to wrangle this monster on board using the fish net holding on to the rod and balancing precariously on the stern of a very rocky boat.

Ugliest fish with a big sucker plate on its head, what the hell am I going to do with this.  The captain still sleeping I awoke him for assistance and grabbed my Fish Identity book.  Remoras are not a fish that would be commonly caught and their intimidating appearance would put most people off eating.  My book said Remoras have a high-quality fillet, so I am up for the challenge on how to fillet this fish with an anatomy I am not familiar with but they look similar to a shark.

I decided to stop fishing chiefly as it was getting more rocky by the minute but my thoughts were that whatever The Remora Fish was attached to must be still hanging about and the last thing I would want to have launching onto the stern platform is a shark.

With a fair amount of gusto I managed to kill, de-head , gut and fillet this fish.  Alas with my head down over the bait board on the back of a very rocky boat………..enormous amounts of innards which included internal suckers like an octopus tentacle,  I succumbed to feeling a bit nauseated and sea sick. A first for this trip.

Leaving West Bay Middle Percy

 The swells in the bay had increased in timing and size to a point that it was dangerous and too uncomfortable to stay on anchor.

We made the choice to move to another Island on the North Side of Middle Percy to Blunt Bay to wait out till conditions changed and then return back to Middle Percy Island when favourable to finish my craft challenge of a Coconut Bra and continue our time relaxing in this small paradise haven.

The Passage to the Percy North East Island the conditions worsened We got soaked and it was a rough ride but the scenery on the north face of Middle Percy Island is spectacular with sheer cliffs that you can safely sail close to as the drop is 40 meters deep water.

North Face of Middle Percy

North Face Middle Percy Weather Rolling In

We sailed into Blunt Bay under the Nose of the Sphinx head like shape of the island.  Actually 2 islands called North East Percy Islands attached by a rocky headland that covers at high tide. The bay was calm and we anchored just off the coral reef.

I baked the Capt Teza scones as I promised if he found smooth water this would be his treat.

Weather Rolling In Blunt Bay

2 Islands of North East Percy Islands Blunt Bay

 We rested the afternoon and I did more Fishing.

The score is Leonie 7 Fish, Teza NIL.

Some of my Fish-  Me 7 Teza NIL

Caught a sweet lip and 3 Blue Tusk fish all whilst sipping on a martini. A good day.

In the evening we taste tested the Remora and Sweet Lip and The Remora fillet was very good.

The next day we explored the Coral Reef of Blunt Bay in the afternoon at low tide, Capt Teza foraged for oysters and I enjoyed wading around the half-submerged fringes of the reef. Enjoying the sound of hundreds of crabs clicking to warn of danger, small fish shoals and some larger creatures such as the what I think was a spotted Wobbegong shark, and stingrays.

Look closely in the seaweed

Gentle approaches to exploring rock pools and coral reefs means that you can view these creatures up close and personal. Remaining still for a period of time and just look in detail whilst nature goes about its business unaware and undisturbed by your presence. It is a challenge sometimes to be still in the water when odd shapes are darting around you like stingrays and small reef sharks and feisty little crabs having a go at your toes.  

Be still and observe

Whats the moving dark patch in the water- It is a shoal of baby fish

                                                             Truly a great experience on this uninhabited island that rarely has boats drop anchor due to the nature of the coral reef and coral bomies in the bay.

Sea Cucumbers 

Calm of the Bay before the storms Hit

 

The Quest for a Coconut Bra.

Sophie the Trumpet Lady- Lee Fordes Garden

In the magical garden of my dearest and Oldest Friend of 57 years Lee, stands Sophie the Trumpet Musician. A creative and whimsical sculpture that lee has created from driftwood and foraged beach curios that lee has collected on her many walks by the sea.  

Sophie is named after a contemporary Trumpet musician and is a fitting tribute to her love of the ocean and music.  Lee and her husband Gerard love of music extends to hosting backyard concerts regularly for friends, raising money for charities and promoting young contemporary musicians and singers.

  The garden is filled with color, creative and interesting curios, delightful smells, edible plantings, unusual plants and designed for wandering, exploring. 

The relaxing haven they have created is an extension of their warm and welcoming personalities and generous souls.

On my last visit I commented that when I get to Percy Islands I would make it a mission to find “Sophie the Trumpet Lady” a coconut bra.

Green Coconut Juice Cocktails

Lee and I have  lived far apart geographically and  though we don’t see each other that often , we remain connected on a deeper level where it matters in heart and spirit. It is a friendship of comfortable familiarity born from a family friendship that gave us a shared childhood from before we could both walk.

It must be said that whilst social media such as Facebook and messenger have been blamed for disconnect in our society my opinion is  for  our generation who had already forged strong friendship foundations and personal connections the old fashioned way, using social media is a wonderful communication experience to reconnect more regularly.

Ernst taking off husk

Cutting open the nut

So in a strange and weird way foraging by the sea for a set of Coconuts for my friend Lee’s garden sculpture is almost like we are children  playing together again building sandcastles and decorating them with all matter of foraged beach treasures.

Percy Island Hilton

A good deal of selection for just the right size coconuts is required to get a matching pair but this quest is an enjoyable past time in  tropical paradise of the coast of Queensland. 

The coconuts gathered are the very grey ones that have a hard nut with no flesh or juice.

Ernst getting Green Coconuts for juice

Selection 

After some exploring Ernst the Percy Islands caretaker, helped 

getting the nuts out of the husk and tomorrow I will bring 

tools from the boat to shore and start crafting.

Percy Islands- Middle Percy West Bay

West Bay Middle Percy Island

WE finally got to our destination of the Percy Islands, after a late start passage from Island Head creek due to sitting on a sandbank again.  The tidal differences are huge each day in this area and can differ at high tide by a meter from a previous high tide the day before.

We sailed most of the way in light calm conditions, sails perfectly set at close haul and we were making way at an average of seven knots which was a good conversion out of a light breeze of 10 knots just off our bow.

Coming into west bay at 9.30pm with no moonlight was a little tricky but we anchored had some warming soup and settled for the night.

Sailing into the sunset to Middle Percy Island

It has taken 18months of planning to get back to these islands as we missed last year sailing and this year was delayed but finally we are here and the morning sunrise of Percy Island beach was a joy to witness greeted by the  sound of bleating wild heritage goats on the rocky headland of the bay………………..WE made it at last.

Weather Change on its way

Sens de la Vie in West Bay Middle Percy Islands

The first couple of days have been very social, enjoying the hospitality of the resident caretakers of this island and meeting other fellow yachties.  Harold the Goat supplied out first communal meal of Goat stew. Lively conversation and guitar playing Jimmy Buffet songs was a great start to our 10 days in this area.

Weather is changing and we expect big winds over the next couple of days with some rain so reading, fishing and generally doing not much is suiting us well. The waters are crystal clear to a depth of 7 meters and warm and I am enjoying leisurely swims at the beach. 

The anchorage is rollie but not uncomfortable enough to move and we are well sheltered for the expected weather changes.

West Bay

Looking North

Today I had the good fortune to be escorted around the island to the lookouts to view the southern side islands, in the island’s only vehicle by the caretaker Ernst.  Spectacular views and a visit to the homestead for a cuppa was a delight.

Looking over South Side of Middle Percy

Weather rolling in..........storms and wind building

It is simple uncomplicated living on the island. The homestead has well established orchards and garden as well as bees. The livestock consist of Goats, peacocks and chickens.  Cattle and sheep have long gone from the islands farm of 100 years due to modern restraints of the lease with National Parks and wildlife. Whilst it all sounds magical living on the island, being sustainable takes hard work tendering to gardens and livestock. No going to the local shop to buy milk and bread.  

Kate and her husband John who have the lease of the island are currently not on the island taking a break and organising supplies for the next 6 months on the mainland, on this occasion we will miss their hospitality but will catch up next year.

The Kitchen at the Homestead

Percy Island Homestead

Not on Menu--------------but they are tasty

My sister Sandra will be pleased to know that Peacock on this Visit is not on the menu and we were greeted handsomely today by the resident peacocks.  

I suspect they wanted to show off how beautiful they are to distract me from coming up with recipes to throw them in a pot.

 

 We plan weather permitting to explore the other islands by the end of the week but for now it’s time to relax and soak up the scenery of this tropical paradise, Percy islands.