Sens de la Vie- King George River and Koolama Bay

 

King George Twin Falls

After leaving the Berkley we made way for the King George River.  The mouth of the river lies in a very large Bay called Koolama 

Koolama Bay Beach

The Bay is  named after the MV Koolama.  MV Koolama is the only Australian ship to have been bombed and sunk by Japanese Forces in Western Australia waters during WW11.

In February 1942 the Koolama was making its way from Fremantle to the northern ports of WA. Carrying 180 crew, passengers, army and cargo and was equipped with Machine guns. On the 20^th February, the Koolama was attacked by a Japanese plane, it was a near miss but shortly after another three more planes dive boomed the ship, in 30 minutes the Koolama was severely damaged. Taking in water, they beached the ship and evacuated to shore. A group of Benedictine Priests with aboriginal guides from Pago Mission set out to assist. The sick and wounded were transported to Drysdale River mission by boat the remainder travelled on land over 120km in very tough terrain to the mission arriving 10 days latter.

One of the survivors became sick and died but all others survived. Miraculous, to survive and air strike and then to traverse these lands, tough men and women. A skeleton crew remained to refloat the ship and without steering and taking on water they limped into Wyndham Harbor only to be attacked again and the ship Koolama was bombed and sunk at Wyndham wharf.  The Koolama was eventually scuttled after many attempts to refloat and she remains 47 feet away from the wharf lying on her starboard side with the port side within in 3.7 of the sea surface.

Koolama Bay

The Kimberly region is rich in History.  Indigenous culture, explorers, surveyors like Phillip Parker King who was commissioned by the British Government to do the chart surveys Hence, all the British names of many of the bays rivers and islands in this area.  Maritime history of pearling, pirates, luggers and trade ships and modern history of people that went and set up camp in the 1970’s to get away from the rest of the world as well as mining history in the West Kimberly region.

 

We were greeted into the beautiful Koolama bay by Dave and Michelle from Luna Sea, they were heading Back to Darwin.  Luna Sea, got out of Darwin before lockdown so they were weeks ahead of us. Sea leaf and Sens de la Vie seemingly to be the very last to leave Darwin for the Kimberly Sailing season.  Luna Sea had suffered a broken tiller, very tricky steering on a catamaran.  They will get it fixed in Darwin.

After a great evening  swapping yarns we set sail in the morning to traverse the King George River with the largest Cliff faces of 100m and the largest falls in the Kimberly. 

King George River

Once again we need to navigate the river entries on a high tide to get over the sand bars.  

The river gorge is wider than the Berkley and just as spectacular. 

Twin Falls

We anchored at the famous King George Twin Falls for the next few days. The falls only now a trickle but still amazing.

Capt Teza Getting Sens de la Vie as close as possible to the falls

Sea Leaf at the base of falls

We fished and foraged for oysters which were plentiful at the base of the falls.

We collected some water which is really and exercise of getting wet under the cascading cool waters.

We eventually got better at collecting water

Getting Wet and having some fun collecting water

 

Beechmountain Gin Travels

 

Washing Day with water from the falls

Luminescent Creatures and waters at night.  

Many marine history journals have recorded what they described as the “Fire Water”.   Sea Tales of mythical beings many cultures believing they are spirits.  No real study of the Bio-luminescent was seriously conducted until World War 1 when a German war submarine was destroyed because the vessel movements revealed its location because of the luminescence.

As well as the Luminescence Algae there are also fish that glow at night or in deep waters.  In the River we witness a magical display of fish creating a light show on the  black-water canvas under the night sky. No Photos. Have taken the liberty of using this photo from the Cannon website “How to take Photos of Bio luminescence”, to give you an idea what this looks like.

 In the tradition of sailors myths and legends we named them “The Aliens”.  The reflections from night sky and the Luminescent activity in the water creating an effect that the sky was falling.

Awe and wonderment.

 

The challenge of climbing the 100m rock face of the falls with the  encouragement and patience of Capt Teza. 

This is the Climb to top of Falls

Taking it slowly, finding my footholds on the spinifex covered rocks.  Many of the walks and climbs are marked by way of rock cairns put in place by the Kimberly Cruising Yacht Club.  We have been members of this club for a couple of years.  We are thankful for the members annual cruising in this area and all contributors to the website forums for all the helpful knowledge.

Resting halfway

Very Steep

Reaching the top of the falls we were rewarded with stunning views over the gorge cliff face to our yacht anchored at the base of falls. 

When you get to the top of these large gorges the vista of a vast land to the horizon only broken by the occasional flat tabletop hill has a rugged hostile beauty. You are made fully aware of how remote you are in this wilderness and how unforgiving this land can be for travelers.

It was very hot, needing a cool down we stripped off and sat in the cool waters with a snack lunch.

When we hike in these areas, we carry enough food for 24hours, first aid, a portable radio and small survival and emergency kit, torch, as well as a large knife and machete.  

OOps!! that is not where we left the Tender

There are many stories of yachties being caught out with the huge and fast tides.  Tenders hanging in rocks and mud with crocs waiting between you and your tender, which means you must wait another 6 hours for tide to change.  Crocs have bitten into inflatables RIB tenders, “chew toys” in the Kimberly leaving a couple stranded for 14 days.  Our new Polycraft tender has already proven invaluable.  It was a huge investment combined with the special engineered davit system installation, we can lift the tender with ease, worth every dollar.  The Polycraft is very stable and can slide over rocks, mud and sand easily without risk of damage. Poly Tuff.

 Fishing was very good with rock cod and sweet black bream caught off our boats and foraging for oysters.

We spent 5 days in the river.

On our return back out to the Koolama Bay we were greeted by Nigel and Kerry from Duet.  We met this couple last year, and caught up again this year at Hope Is NQ. 

Connections face to face with yachties can be many months or years before you are both in the same harbour,  as it turns out they were very good friends of Brian and Sandra from Sea Leaf as they had cruised around Tasmania together.  Great social night with  shore fire and sundowners, much laughter and fun.

WWSA Women Who Sail Australia Kerry Sandra and Me

Nigel and Kerry gave us some intel on various anchorages going further into central Kimberly and Indigenous art locations which was most helpful.

We departed the next day leaving Sea Leaf  crew behind to continue their reconnection with Nigel  and Kerry.

Sens de la Vie made way to Glycosmis Bay still traversing the Eastern Seaboard of Western Australia in the waters of Joseph Bonaparte Gulf.  Had a very uncomfortably night and departed at day light for Sire Graham Moore Islands