Sunday 23 September 2018

Exploring NQ- Final Destination and Turnaround Homeward

Mission Beach looking across to Dunk Island

Exploring NQ – Dunk Island, Mission Beach and Orpheus
We decided whilst conditions for the next couple of days were favourable to make passage a little further from Hinchinbrook Island to Dunk Island and Mission Beach.
Terry wanted to catch up with an ex co worker of many years ago who is now Chief Engineer, water and sewage with Cassowary Council.

WE experienced very calm conditions to explore Dunk Island which was a very popular holiday destination for nature lovers until Cyclone Yassi damaged the resort. It has yet to be rebuilt but camping grounds are still fully operational.  Terry was most interested in seeing what damage can be done to buildings by a cyclone, in his opinion the bones of the buildings are sound and it would not take much to redeem the buildings and infrastructure. A caretaker is onsite and main reception and dinning buildings seemed to have been restored, pool is operational and the airstrip is maintained. Lets hope that the owners eventually reopen the resort.




Dunk is covered in tropical rainforest and is only a couple miles off the coast giving easy access from mission beach to explore its many coves and walk the forest tracks.
It is popular with day visitors who traverse across mission beach in Kayaks, small tinnies, jet skies, and all manner of sea vessels.
As the waters between the Mainland and Dunk were like glass we took the tender over, a short 10 mins away and the following day we decided to move the boat off shore at mission beach to meet up with Terry’s ex co-worker Geoff Smart and his wife Denise.  
We were given a guided tour of the area and had lunch at a quirky little cafe.  Mission beach is a very relaxed uncomplicated holiday village with good restaurants, cafe's and artisans galleries.  It has all the usual modern amenities but still retains a very casual seaside village atmosphere, set on a pristine coconut lined beach.  A favorite of the Grey Nomads as most camping and caravan sites along the whole coast were full.


Landing on Mission Beach

From a small hilltop headland to the boating ramp the view was spectacular overlooking Dunk Island and the Group of Islands Called “Family Islands”. Looking down into the crystal clear waters watching a 5 meter Tiger shark cruising very close to the shore line was a reminder to be diligent when snorkeling and swimming in these waters.

View to Dunk Island from Mission Beach Lookout

Our tour did not include a sighting of a Cassowary bird, signs are everywhere but Geoff and his wife told stories of encounters with these big birds who can be very aggressive.
Delightful area that we hope to return via vehicle in the future.
We left Dunk Island and zigzag through the Family group of Islands passing the very exclusive Bedarra Island.  The waters in this group of islands are crystal clear with most islands having sandy beaches fringed by tropical rain-forest and coconut trees. Very lush compared to the islands of the Whitsundays and south.

We made passage back pass the seaward side of Hinchinbrook to make anchorage at Orpheus Island.  Passing Lucinda Sugar Jetty, the largest service jetty in the Southern Hemisphere extending almost 6 miles out to sea.



Orpheus Island, unfortunately, we arrive just as after the turn of the tide and late in the afternoon which negated me snorkelling or doing a walk amongst the giant Clams. I did take the Tender to view just under the water and they are amazing.
The giant clams some measuring up to 2 meters and weigh 200kg on low tide create a natural fountain spurting out grit and sand.  I have taken the liberty of using a Photo Courtesy of the web page of James Cook University research campus which is situated on the Island. 
This island I would love to explore more and hopefully I will get the opportunity to do so in the future.
Orpheus Island from the Air

Giant Clams Orpheus island Photo from James Cook University

The Army Landing Vessels Anchored at Orpheus Island

Fishing and viewing clams from the Tender


Our passage from Dunk Island we were followed by three huge Army landing ships, who also anchored for the night at Orpheus.  This conjured up our imagination and Terry and I went into competition in story telling on a grand scale of conspiracy theories of what the Army was up to in these waters.
We traversed the Palm Island group making passage to Magnetic Island, but on arrival and getting up to date weather forecast we made passage to Townsville which for the short 12 nautical miles was an horrendous passage.  We stayed a few days in protection on the marina from the winds and large swell. Enjoyed local restaurants and the historical building walking trail through the main street, many of the magnificent buildings lay dormant of activity waiting to be restored and reopened.
Leaving Townsville


Marg, Lizzy and I enjoying Cocktails and a catch up

By chance the P & O cruise arrived in port with our dear friend Marg Haebich with her sisters and Mum.
We caught up at a bar looking over the Townsville main beach, caught with local mountain news from home over a few cocktails.  It made me a little homesick to see my family and friends. 


We departed Townsville and committed to a long passage to Cape Bowling Green.  It was horrendous conditions with waves 3 meters standing up in a short swell.  Blue water on the bow as it hammered through the sea resulted in a small weld fracture on the bow pushpit and the forward cabin hatch leaking.  The cascade of water through the hatch soaked all bedding.  We got to Cape Bowling Green and anchored long enough to do running repairs on the hatch and get some food prepared as we decided that holding was not good and we were too exposed to the elements.
It was a very hard day at sea when we finally got to calmer waters at Cape Upstart it had been a 12 hr journey of relentless hammering into the waves.  After fixing up temporary sleeping bedding for the night we went to bed exhausted.
Next day we did it all again to Gloucester Island but it was a shorter trip and bearable.

The following day we arrived at Airlie Able Point Marina where we will stay for a few days in safe harbour.  WE needed this time to fix hatch and wash all linen and dry out bedding and forward cabin.  I got my hair done which was a little me time as I looked like the “whore of the Hesperus”.
WE accidentally caught up with the ex GM of Newman's group of companies which Terry worked for a decade or more ago. We had a delightful dinner of mud crab at the Rum Bar enjoying the good company of Ian Carson's and his wife Jo.

Provisions done we waited for the Arrival of Terry's current boss Greg Alder on his 110ft luxury super yacht Sovereign Lady.  
Dinner on board and a full tour of this boat.  Greg and I went to the engine room for about 30 mins which was impressive. by the time I came back to Capt Teza and Crew Nick  had explored the extensive selections of rum at the Ships Bar.

It was very evident that I needed to get the captain home to Sens de la Vie and navigating the wobbly happy sailor over a kilometer of docking was a challenge.








Hungover Capt Teza
WE departed the next day to Macona Inlet to get out of the wind and poor sea conditions and enjoyed a few days relaxing, collecting oysters and fishing.
Macona Inlet



On the helm



Macona Beach Oyster Collection
Cervice Coconut chilli and lime Fish with Fried Wontons
Collecting Oysters

Oysters Three Ways Shooters, Tempura and Natural


Fishing successfully on this journey has eluded me.  Small fish thrown back in or species I don’t particular like to eat.
Rays and sharks are very active in this inlet and yet tourists on charter boats are jumping into waters known for shark activity at sunset from the back of their charter boats.

I learnt since that the very next day at Cid Harbour was an incident of a woman being bitten from swimming at 5pm from the back of a charter boat and I can’t help wondering if this was the same family at Macona.
Cid harbour is a very popular anchorage as it offers great protection from wind in all directions but because it has a lot of boats who through food scraps overboard, sharks are present.
The charter boat companies need an overhaul in practices.  We got chatting to one staff member of a well know company who stated that they hire to anyone and there prerequired experience is not as strict as other countries.  The debrief and assessment of a hirer is now basically a lecture how to rather than, assessing if they can do.
Certainly, what I witness over the weeks in the Whitsundays is a disregard to boating rules, protocols and the natural environment by hirers of charter boats, in particular catamaran yachts. Running to close to whales, running over turtles, dropping anchor on the reefs, swimming off back of boats at shark feeding time, anchoring too close to other yachts, using public moorings past allocated time restrictions and general poor seamanship.  At the Marina I witness the so called debrief given and it lacked hands on involvement by the hirers who stood around watching not doing or being assessed by the charter operator.
Saying Goodbye to Whitsundays a whale waving us goodbye
Making passage homeward we hope to be an enjoyable experience rather than a chore, with little hops down the coast to our favorite islands.  Our passages are dictated by wind and sea conditions, time and safe anchorage to the conditions.

Farewell Whitsundays till next we sail your waters
On a beautiful day that happen to be our 38th Wedding anniversary we sailed away from Whitsundays passing Thomas Island, the much-loved Percy Islands putting away a 100 nautical miles behind us to anchor in Island Head creek where we will hunkered away in safety until the foretasted warnings of 30knot winds and 3 meter swells dissipate.

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