Monday 11 October 2021

Raft Point, Montgomery Reef, Melomys Island, Horizontal Falls


We are now in the area they call  Western Kimberly.

Raft Point


Stock Photo of the Western Kimberley Coast

The rugged beauty of this vast and hostile wilderness provides and endless backdrop of breathtaking panorama.

Coming into Raft Point

Raft Point is one of the most iconic rocky points of the region and most photographed due to its location and a  scheduled visitation anchorage of  Kimberley Charter Cruises.




Cool Change coming into Raft Point



Lizard Island at Raft Point

There are thousands of creeks and bays with tidal waters running between islands and into bays very creating strong whirlpools and tidal rapids.  This area of the Kimberley has the largest tides in the Southern Hemisphere up to 12 meters. As you navigate the waters it becomes very disconcerting having mushrooms of sand billowing up to the surface of waters that are 30 meters plus deep.  You have to be very prepared to be spun around in the whirlpools if you get your timing incorrectly for the ebbs and flows for the tidal currents.

Scenery as we make way along the coast




Generously Brian and Sandra  offered to us and Cool Change a day trip to Montgomery Reef to save 3 boats going out to the reef.  Lisa and I were so excited to be going on a day cruise.  Sea Leaf is a very comfortable Ocean Cruiser and our hosts Brian and Sandra make us so welcomed on board.  We have formed a wonderful friendship with Brian and Sandra and Matt and Lisa sharing this adventure together.  Packed lunch goodies prepared for the next day we went on board Sea Leaf.

Stock Photo of Montgomery Reef

Perfect weather and glass out seas we left Raft Point to Montgomery reef with the timing of the Low tide around 1pm.  Whales breed in this area and we got to witness the whales as we crossed paths going to the reef.

Montgomery reef is a large reef that is 110km in Circumference.  There is a small channel into the reef which you traverse and anchor to wait for the low tide and the spectacle of seeing the reef emerge out of the sea creating water cascading waterfalls along the reef edge.

The waters come alive with turtles, sea snakes and fish as they make there way into the channel and deeper water as the tide drops. 

You feel like the ocean has shrunk as you slowly sink to a lower level of water.

A spectacular Day , great fun, good company and a wonderful experience shared with the Motley Crew.


Sea Leaf in Reef Channel before tide dropped



 














Sea Leaf in Chanel after tide dropped


Sandra and Brian Sea Leaf



Raft Point we stayed for a couple of days.  I did have a dip at a nearby beach and collected some rocks.  Matt and Lisa did the walk up to the art and were disappointed.  The local tribe decided to “touch it up”  but not in the traditional mediums of ochre and by way of hand painted.  It appears that white dulux paint was used and drips of paint can be found on the Cave floor and down the original work.  I have included a couple of photos courtesy of Matt and Lisa.

The Motley Crew all together at Raft Point

 



Just a Little swim


Capt Teza Foraging for Oysters


Lisa at the overhang at Raft Point


Not a good paint job touching up this rock art
Raft Point


Sens De la Vie and Cool Change Both Beneteau Yachts  Sens de la Vie the old girl 15 years older than Cool Change.





Making passage to Horizontal falls in Talbot Bay,  Cool Change and ourselves took a different passage than Sea Leaf, I was keen to go to Melomys Island to see if we could find the Jabiru.

 

Also we could get a small amount of  telco reception.

 

We were not disappointed and it was such a delight and joy for me personally to see these huge birds in the wild.

As I watched from a distance through Binoculars witnessing a White Belly Brown Sea Eagle catch a fish, eating its catch on the mangrove mud flats.  Out of the creek struts the Jabiru in his red stocking legs and large wings flapping aggressively scoring himself the fish away from the Eagle. Nature doing its thing.  Matt has great camera gear and took some photos, we were some distance off shore due to it being a shallowing bay and the big tides.

I have decided I need to invest in a camera with a long range lens so I can capture wildlife shots from a distance.  Which is the trick to good wildlife photography to have no disturbing interactions.

Talbot Bay Stock Photo

 

 The Buccaneer Archipelago has over 1000 islands with white fine sand in some of the bays. The scenery looks like something out of a pirate movie.  A labyrinth of Bays and Islands. 

 

We made our way to Talbot Bay, Horizontal falls to do the tourist thrill of riding a very powerful motor boat through the gorge gap over the large tidal overflow.   There is a seasonal Tourist floating hotel that accommodates around 30 people overnight.  

Horizontal Falls Talbot Bay

They also have 4 seaplanes that constantly land and take off on the water ferrying day visitors from Broome and Derby.  Up to 200 people come to the tourist barge daily during the dry season to have a tour of the area and do the fast boat ride over the horizontal falls. Its about an hour turnaround from the time they land till they take off  again and the Planes are in constant rotation picking up and dropping off guests.  The Kimberley Cruisers also have this activity on there cruise  schedules.  We were lucky to get a ticket to do the Horizontal falls.  The manager very friendly and accommodating but the staff did not take her lead treating all guests with courtesy  and were made to feel like intruders by some of the staff which was disappointing.

The falls are created by tidal surges through two very small gorges and between two large bodies of water. Insert arial photo

It’s a thrill and very spectacular.  We organised our tickets to participate and were not disappointed.  Capt Teza had a big “Need for Speed” smile of his face.

 



We were also friended by a “Lemon Shark” as some people call them, they are closely related to the  Broad Snouted Sharp-toothed Shark” as described in the Grants Fish Identification Bible on all things in Australian Waters.  The lemon sharks also visit the tourist platform and get fed at certain times of the day.  Obvious they are familiar with human interaction.  This shark decided to just hang out with us for a couple of days at the back of the boat.

It was like having a pet …………………………….so we both patted the sharks nose.  Yes,  they do have some teeth but are very timid and not aggressive.

Patting Lemon Sharks

 

 


We had our farewell Dinner, “gone troppo theme” on Sea Leaf. This is our last goodbye night all together with Sea Leaf as they were going to make some miles to Cignet Bay to meet up with some friends and then onto Broome.  We hope to once again sail and anchor together on the Eastern Seaboard in 2022.

Beginning of the Night


End of the night


Lisa writes her own blog for Cool Change and I have shared this link.  Recently she wrote at the end of her blog a quote, that we felt very connected. 

There are friends, there is family and then there are friends that become family.

We have experienced an amazing adventure in the Kimberley that will forever bond us together with shared happy and fun memories.

This is an example of helping each other out as we all had failures of equipment swapping parts and assisting each other.  Sea Leaf Water Maker went on the blink so  cool change rafted up and filled via thier water maker.

But you what they say about boats that raft up!!


Brian and Sandra Towing us as our outboard conked out


We all got dressed for the occasion Capt Teza feeling he should have some bling so he hung his favorite little spanner around his neck and went all out for the theme with his “Gillian Hat”.

Fun Night

 

 Cool Change and ourselves had ordered fuel from the Fuel Barge at Dog Leg creek so we sailed together to Silver Gull Creek. 

Read more in the next blog Silver Gull, Cockatoo Island, and our turnaround to return to Darwin. 




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