Friday 27 November 2020

Exploring Far North Queensland October 2020


 

Orpheus, Hinchinbrook and Dunk Islands October 2020

We left Magnetic Island on a beautiful day with perfect sailing conditions.  Our best so far on this passage.

We have had uneventful sailing in terms of no major mishaps, mayhem or chaos on this leg FNQ, so my blogs don’t have my usual candid embellished stories of the calamities of Capt Teza and his crew…………………………………….but I am fairly positive that a story will be told in future blogs.

The seasonal cruising Pod who were fortunate to be able to sail the Queensland Coast and Islands in 2020 season are mostly heading south now catching the northerly winds.  This is the  seasonal turnaround for most yachties.  


We have always found October to be a great month to sail, with low rainfall.  We have yet to experience the North in November and December but fellow yachties have all made positive reports on conditions in previous year sailing logs. 



The bonus is that anchorages are less busy the downside is that there are less opportunities to meet fellow members of WWSA(women for sail Australia)  and the flotilla of Cruising Queensland FB members.

Our destination is an overnight stop at Orpheus Island to check out the giant clams, unfortunately the  planned visit to the James Cook University Research Center was cancelled due to Covid 19 restrictions. I was hoping that we would be able to see the giant clams in the spring tides when they are not submerged. Timing of tides and time resulted in us just viewing from above ………………….but I am sure I will get to hug a clam as we explore further north.  


Some clam bleaching has occurred in waters between Townsville and Magnetic Island,  thankfully,  I saw no beaching at Orpheus.  Clams are amazing creatures, they usually live on flat coral beds or broken coral. The mantle tissue of the shell displays many different patterns and colours.  Orpheus Island  offers great snorkeling, there are 350 coral species on the Great Barrier Reef, 340 of thesecoral species can be found in the fringing reefs of Orpheus Island. This is my 3rd visit to this island and every time weather, timing and sea state has not given me to opportunity to explore the reefs.  Hopeful that my exploring further North on The Great Barrier Reef will present more opportunities.


We sailed across to the entrance of Hinchinbrook island inland channel, at Lucinda Sugar Wharf which stretches 6 kilometres into the coral sea.  The leads (Light Markers) to take us in the channel are fixed on the Jetty and bring us very close alongside the wharf . 

These stock photos give a better view of this jetty and the entrance.




This is our 3rd passage in this channel ,  each time despite our best planning, its always with some blow up of wind or a squall that challenges our passage over this shallow bar. 


We only had a meter under our keel at the lowest point.  I get very anxious as I sound off the depths to Capt Teza so he can focused staying on the lead marker lights in the washing machine waters.







Once behind the Hinchinbrook Island, calm waters and the majestic rainforest covered  mountain  with its many visible waterfalls, has a calming effect on your spirit .  You have entered into an ancient land and waterway that looks like something out of “Jurassic Park” Movie. 



This area certainly takes your breath away.


I made contact with a fellow well known, WWSA member Lyn and Kurt her partner.  They were up the top end of the Hinchinbrook channel and we met the next day.  Wonderful to meet this couple who have traveled the world by Motorbike, Truck and now Sailing. Very Adventurous Couple.

Lively conversations,  as it turns out Kurt Lived and went to school at Lower Beechmont in the 60s which meant that he knows many of our local lads in from their teenage years that we call friends today. 

Way too much rum was consumed by the Capt.  I observe that he misses “bloke conversation” one on one.  




Terry retired on the eve of the Covid  Pandemic.  Leaving a large workforce, predominately male,  in the construction industry for over 40 years,  to "Just me" at home in isolation due to another serious virus. 

Not saying that we have any difficulty in keeping each other amused , entertained and checked. How else would this partnership work for over 40 years?  

But there is a void when you stop work, and it takes awhile to adjust your stride, interests and priorities. Indeed, for Terry being a Project Manager for many years he needs a project....................and I am not it!  

I do need his care as I became very sick and still recovering. 

I could not experience this sailing adventure without his love, his physical attributes (pretty good for 65), seamanship and his mental capabilities. That keep us safe and the shipshape.

 We have good couples conversations, debating various subjects and laugh our way through most of our mishaps and mayhem. 

Normal in retirement you would have some celebration, time to catch up with some work colleges,   old friends , visit family and relax into your transition of no paid employment.  

 DUNK ISLAND











As I was desperate to get into the water and at least have a swim, we made passage to Dunk Island and anchored in Coconut Bay . 

 This Bay is not favored by yachties with big keels as there are many bommies, as we discovered on a lower than normal tide, gently grazing a rocky shelf.

Capt Teza going back to Yacht to give me some alone time


Postcard Anchorage



Opposite side to the old resort and the main anchoring area but just perfect for us to relax watch the wildlife including a turtle that greeted me every morning for coffee. 

Capt Teza Relaxing and on watch as I paddle in the water

Don’t ask me for a photo of wildlife.  I am the “worlds worst Wildlife “ photographer, which is very disheartening when I majored in photography at Art College. 

"No Arse" Photos Capt Teza

But I get so excited to witness this nature so close, I just get caught up in the moment.  I have previously gone to grab a camera to take a footage of turtles, whales, dugongs, dolphins, rays and all manner of fish and I have missed the moment.  So now I just embrace the moment, if I have a camera ready sometimes I will make an effort to capture and share this moment with you. 

   



What Photos don’t capture.

The salty air, a warm breeze carrying the sweet smell of the rainforest and the saltiness of the ocean, warmth of the sun on your skin,  ever present sounds, of birds, fish, some weird shrimp things that make noises under your hull,  a puff of breath from a turtle, the waves lapping on shore over coral rubble, rocks and sand, trees as they sway in the breeze.


 It’s a sensory overload of the natural world that I am very grateful to experience and explore a small part of this living planet.





Next Blog  Port of Mourilyan which has a secret entry almost unseen from out to sea.

So difficult to identify from sea that Capt James Cook missed it on his travels and it was only discovered in 1872,  a secret little harbor  filled with mystery and maybe treasure.



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