Sens De La Vie- Through the Hole in the Wall to Wonderland June 2021

 

Cape Arnhem to Cape Wessel

We left Gove in the morning setting sail across Meville Bay to round Cape Wilberforce to Elizabeth Bay.  Cool Change in company making good head way decided to go further on to Wigram Island in the English Company Islands. 

Capt Teza in the wet gear Again

We have had overcast skies and rain since we left Cairns making sailing challenging at times with constant squalls and variable winds.  Photography does not do the sea vistas any justice under dull skies but in full sun they are beautiful aqua blues.  It was no surprise that we found ourselves once again in squalls, but we managed to get some protection from the swell passing many reefs and shoals in this area.

We anchored at Elizabeth Bay, a calm anchorage preparing for our big challenge of the Gugari Rip, known to sailors as the “Hole in the Wall”.

As customary at night I put the stern spotlights on to see what’s swimming around the boat. 

A surprise when a Shark popped is head out from under the boat at the stern between my feet.  It was a large shark which I found difficult to identify and at least 3.5 meters long.  Latter, I learned that it was a Lemon shark from my sailing guiding angel Justine Porter. He is very friendly, harmless and likes to be patted.  His name is Mr Giggles and he has friends. 

Elizabeth Bay has a large Pearling operation and the bay is filled with Pearl racks so careful attention when coming into anchor,  I hope to return and get better acquainted with Mr Giggles.

The Hole in the Wall.

The Gugari Rip is a small deep passage between the Islands of Guluwuru and Raragala.  It is called the “hole in the wall”  as you can’t see the entry to the passage until you are directly in front of the gap in the rocky cliffs.  With cliffs and rocky shores on both sides of the entrance it can be quiet formidable in large swells on your approach,  seemingly we are heading straight towards a rocky shore. 

  We set our sails to “hove to”  the yacht on our approach as we needed to wait another 45 minutes to enter the passage.  That was a bit scary getting tossed about by large swells so close to a rock face.

The currents running through this passage can be 9 to 12 knots and if not timed right can potentially spin your boat backwards with the swirling mass of water gushing through this passage on the change of tides.

So a slack tide is the advised timing to make your way. I am pleased to say Capt Teza timed it perfectly for a smooth motor sail of this infamous passage.  As soon as we got into the passage the waters were flat with rocky outcrops each side. Pushing 2 knots of current  comfortably under motor.

 Capt Teza very pleased with himself and for me it felt like I was  “Alice” arriving into wonderland. 

Capt Teza Very Happy

 

Blue Sky, calm flat aqua blue seas against red bauxite rock faces, beautiful bays and beaches.  The landscape of Arnhem emerged in all its glory and magnificence.

Cool Change followed through just after us and we found anchorage in Guruliya Bay.  Perfect Anchorage with full protection and lovely sandy beaches.  We celebrated arrival at The Wessels with sundowners and once again Border Force Airplane Patrol  did I fly over and checked on us, via radio.

Cool Change left us anchor to explore the Wessels North for a couple of days and we stayed at Guruliya Bay enjoying just “being”,   at this very remote wilderness. Living in the moment of discovery in a place of natural beauty and  significant cultural importance.

Cocktail Named in Homage to Justine Porter "Sailing Guiding Angel"
using her home made Fejoia Schnappes she gifted to our stores in 2020

All the challenges we experience in pursuit of sailing to remote areas of Australia’s coastline, are forgotten in these moments, making our travels worthy.

Lots of History and many mysteries one being five coins found that have been authenticated to be from Kilwa Sultante in Tanzania .  These are medieval African Coins. Much debate how they came to be on this island.

The Indigenous Yolngnu Clan Elder in Gove, who holds the Native Title to these Islands. Via our contacts  granted us permission to go ashore, even though we had no official Aboriginal Lands Council Permits (Govt).  We were respectful and went ashore to stretch our legs under the requirement for solace and take a walk.  There are no inhabitants or clan communities on these islands anymore.  We did not venture any further to explore the caves that reported to have indigenous paintings in the overhangs.  We can only hope that on our return we can explore more of this amazing coastline.  

 

Can not take the Capt Teza Seriously

 We moved southward to Refuge Bay where we spent a couple of days doing ship maintenance, making bread, cakes and water.  Yes, I have to do housework constantly on a yacht,  stowing away items, cleaning down surfaces, the  Heads (bathrooms) and food management of fresh stores, rotating the eggs, checking on the fruit and veg.  

Trying to keep a small living area tidy is a huge challenge made even more difficult when Capt Teza is doing ship maintenance.  Tending to all things mechanical, electrical and plumbing, water making, refuelling, servicing the motor are just some of the many tasks he undertakes that requires tools and bits and pieces to be strewn from one end of the boat to the other and usually all at the same time. 

In the following week we will be doing some longer day sails with no shore leave so a few days of non sailing is required to do some jobs, relax, plan passage making, prepare meals for long days sailing and hand washing.  

I also need rest periods particularly when having RA attacks which are very painful and debilitating, requiring an assortment of drugs that make me nauseated, weakened, and irritable. Unfortunate,  even in these beautiful surrounds that the attacks are still frequent and without warning.

I am grateful to be able to do this adventure living on a yacht and travelling to remote areas.  It comes with sacrifices of the things we take for granted when living on land.  The biggest sacrifice for me personally, is of the heart. Not seeing our family and friends.  It is doubly difficult when communications are limited to keep connected to those we love.

We understand that most people would not consider an adventure sailing to the most remote coastal waters and islands in Australia and may even find it hard to relate to our travel life choices. 

That’s OK  it is a path less traveled and requires a certain amount of faith and hope, in ourselves and our vessel.

Our desire and passion for this adventure is primarily borne from curiosity, a love of the sea, exploring,  challenging ourselves and taking risks.  It is not a choice many would understand, particularly at this  time of our lives.

For the Capt and myself we love it despite some mishaps that question our resolve to get to the Kimberly Coast.

We have a great sense of achievement, even on the worst days.  A huge capacity for seeing the humorous side to our escapades, mayhem and chaos that goes hand in hand with doing extraordinary risk activities.  

Cool Change

We are enjoying the companionship of our much younger sailing friends Lisa and Matt on “Cool Change” who a circumnavigating around Australia. 

Their Journey around Australia means for them, that each day they make the most of the moment. They busily explore as much as they can.  

They said “we may not get a chance to come back and revisit”.

Really, not much different to our thinking even though we plan to explore these areas again on our return home passage.

Cool Change in the Distance Great Travelling Friends Matt and Lisa

But in life nothing is guaranteed.

Their enthusiasm, love of the outdoors and curiosity is the connection that transcends our age barriers. We are like minded kindred spirits, generations apart and vastly different life experiences. In a moment of time we are sharing our sailing travels and joy in these remote coastal waters of Australia.

Cool Change at Sunset

Sometimes, just a little, little bit, I am Envious of the youth they have on their side.

I  wished we had done this earlier in our life. Purely on the basis, that you are more physically capable to get the most out of the experience, handle some of the rough days at sea and the physically demanding work of managing a yacht.  

But those thoughts are swiftly dismissed as I have comfort in knowing had we done so,  we would have missed out on all the other great life experiences we have been blessed with in our life together.  

Our greatest, most loved and treasured times of raising our two beautiful daughters and being part of a wonderful community of friends at Beechmont.

Our next anchorage Refuge bay on Elcho Island we made way to  Jigaimara Pt, Howard Island, which was rollie and uncomfortable. 

Entrance Island Liverpool River

The next morning a big day sail to Entrance Island in the beautiful Liverpool River.  Tucked in close to the island shore provided us with no swell for a peaceful night.  We had company on shore,  the local Dads and sons having caught a Turtle were cooking it on the beach.  

We had limited internet with  messages of the big Chill down south. Our thoughts went back to home as family and friends were all bracing  for a big chill  predicted for the South. 

As the sun was setting and cocktail in hand, in pleasant 25 degrees, witnessing a local tradition of BBQ Turtle I imagined my family and friends putting on the fires, Ugg boots and being cosy under blankets.  

 

 Currently, as well as weather that determines where we anchor and travel in these islands is the restrictions by Government.  The NT Aboriginal Land Council is not granting any visitor permits to go to shore and interact with communities due to the Bio Security restrictions in place for indigenous communities in Covid 19 pandemic. We accept this restriction for the protection of our indigenous communities.

We are however given solace to go to shore and stretch our legs but no further than the high tide mark and no interaction.  We fully understand the protection of our Indigenous Peoples and hope that these restrictions will be lifted on our return, giving us the opportunity for greater understanding of community life and culture in these remote wilderness areas.

Sens De la Vie and Cool Change at Anchor North Goulburn Island

From Entrance Island we traveled to North Goulburn where we had shore leave to explore, lots of wildlife.  The NT parks and Wildlife are currently burning off which makes for some interesting photography with the smoke surrounding us in the bay.

Crock Tracks - Photo Matt Crook

Our next day was to Oxley Island,  we came in at late afternoon with no visibility for lookout on bommies and reefs.  Rollie, uncomfortable stopover with a bay filled with foul ground, which our keel found with a thud.  No damage to hull, but it makes you nervous to find a suitable anchor spot when charts are saying " inadequately surveyed use line of sight".  Something we have to manage  better going forward for the Kimberly coast and parts of the NT coastline.  

Capt Teza has purchased a new depth sounder that will have some features to assist traverse shallow waters and anchoring. We will install when we get to Darwin.

 Keeping our passage timing to get into anchorages in good light is important but sometimes the sea and weather tests us to make anchorage in good light.

At Oxley Island we were visited by a small bird that was exhausted and just wanted to rest, we made a nest for the bird in my boat shoe, and it stayed all night until the morning. The wildlife has no fear of humans and close interactions are a frequent delight.

Up at the crack of dawn and excited to be reaching Port Essington, Garig Gunak Barlu National Park in the Cobourg Peninsula. A vast area of sheltered waters, Natural beauty, an abundance of wildlife and Indigenous and early settlers History. National Parks gives us free range to explore without restrictions.

Port Essington Experience  next blog