With much excitement
we made passage via the Palm Group of Islands to Hinchinbrook Island.
Hinchinbrook is
the largest Great Barrier reef Island at almost 40,000 Hectares, all of which
is under the custody and care of Qld National
Parks Authority.
Sea and weather
conditions were in our favor so we headed for Zoe Bay, long held ambition to
visit this tropical paradise. Quoting Alan Lucus in Cruising the Coral Coast “Zoe
Bay is perhaps the most Beautiful Place on the entire east Coast of Australia”.
Approach to Hinchinbrook is impressive with rainforest-clad mountains and the
craggy Peaks of 1,121m high Mt Bowen.
Classic south
seas island backdrop and it reminded me of Jurassic park movie set.
The island is
made up of Paleozoic Igneous Rock, (pink granite), Paleo is derived from a Greek
word meaning old and Zoe, meaning life……………” ancient life”. It was fitting that our Boat Sens de la Vie ,
French translation “meaning of life” was nestled in this beautiful bay.
Zoe Bay has a
2.5 km curved sandy shore lined with coconut trees and native mature
rainforest, it was picture perfect and I was grateful to have the opportunity
to fulfil a long term dream of sailing to this destination.
The anchorage
is a little difficult as the sands are smooth and rock hard. The waters were so crystal clear that I could
see our anchor laying on its side beneath us, which was a little disconcerting not
being ploughed in, but we had a lot of chain out and we held well with a slight
swell coming into the bay.
We explored the
island by the shore as it was coming into evening and settled for a very
pleasant night watching the mountains chain colour in the sunset.
In the morning
we made tracks to visit the fresh water Pool and waterfall on the southern end
of the Bay a short walk through creeks and over boulders. Being so dry the creeks were slow flowing
Quandong purple
blue fruit littered our pathway through the rainforest all the while the mournful
calls of Curlew Birds and some other bird weird call that I could not identify .
All the while smelling a fresh green
perfume and earthiness of the rainforest.
The waterfall
was not cascading in its normal glory as it had not rained on Hinchinbrook for
some time, but it was still spectacular in my eye. The infinity pools at the
top of the waterfall were sadly stagnant so we did not traverse the huge boulders
to the top of the falls.
I had a swim in
the clear waters with the fresh water fish “jungle Perch” the size of a shoe
box who are obviously use to sharing this gorgeous pond with humans and swam
around me with the occasional nibble on loose skin flecks.
The Water was
very cool but under the waterfall the water was warm from cascading down the
huge rock face. Terry did not go for a
swim he does not enjoy cold water. As
for me I paddled around the boulder edges of the pool under the canopy of over
hanging rainforest.
All I can say
it was magical and a very special experience.
On our return
to the yacht we made the decision to make passage to the inside channel of
Hinchinbrook as seas and winds were building causing a swell in the bay. With our anchor not ploughed in firmly I was
not looking for a night rolling around and on anchor watch to mare the
extraordinary experience of Zoe Bay.
The leads can
be a bit confusing and with depths at stages being on 2.5mtrs with a 2 meter
keel clearance required I was indeed very anxious. “All part of the adventure” says Capt Teza.
WE made passage
at dusk to Haycock Island which was a small island in the middle of the channel
that offered good holding and protection.
Once again nestled under the mountains and witnessing a beautiful sunset
over the mainland with the mountain putting on a color display as the sun set.
Out comes the
fishing gear but yet again the fish are not interested in our offerings landed
a couple of small fish but nothing to excite my culinary passions.
The next morning,
we moved further up the channel and Capt Teza decided to go up an Island Creek
in search of fish and crocodiles.
The
creeks depths were good but we were so close to the mangroves we could almost
reach our and touch them. I think the
Capt got a little too excited and declared this is like going through the
Jungle creeks of the Amazon.
Once again we
failed to top up our provisions with the famed Barramundi which are prolific in
this area but from discussion later with those in the know, the Fish are all up
the creeks where we can not traverse our Yacht and we were not keen in an inflatable
tender to visit the Crock inhabitants.
We got out of
the creek before low tide left us stranded and had another peaceful night at
Haycock Island anchorage.
In the morning
after checking weather and sea conditions for the next few days we decided to
go a little further in our passage to Dunk Island and Mission Beach.
I encourage all
that love wilderness places to visit Hinchinbrook it is indeed a very magical
extraordinary area of Australia.
