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| Capt Teza and his Wench |
For those who may be new readers to our sailing blogs, they are not written as such of a ships log with information on apparent wind, speed over water, compass bearings and so forth. The blogs are a narrative of thoughts and feelings, funny stories of Mishaps, Mischief and Mayhem, sights, sounds, smells, experiences that amazed and amused us on our journey north. Living our life with gratitude, travelling the coast, navigating the coastal waters of Australia on a yacht no bigger than a double garage. Living life slow.
After leaving Gladstone (last blog),we went to Port Clinton,
Great Keppel islands and Yepoon, met up with some friends from the mountain the
Durand’s and Leesa and Alan from the Sunshine Coast who happened to be
holidaying in the region
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| Judy and Jon Meet up at Keppels |
We also got to meet fellow sailing members of Cruising Queensland group, for lively conversations and exchanging information. We fly the burgees of our memberships “Women Who Sail Australia, Percy Island Yacht Club and Shaggers Yacht Club”.
We had pre organised to get new clears on our dodger
completed at Roslyn Bay Marina as zippers had deteriorated and no longer worked
to give us a watertight cover over the cockpit.
Weather although sunny during the day was very cold at night
and I was suffering with RA attacks and regulating body temperature primarily
due to low iron count and unfavorable white cell count. I was also very stressed at this time worrying about a few things back home, family and friends, which all added to having continuing RA Attacks. My only relief was the dreaded drugs I must
take and the comfort of hot water bottle, the 12-volt electric heated travel
rug from Aldi, and practicing mindfulness. Understanding, empathy and kindness to yourself and others is a mind set that helps with wellness. Letting go of things I can't change or fix is a challenge for me.
Port Clinton and Percy Island
I have written in the past many blogs on Percy Islands and you will find them in the history sections of our blog library. For this part of the passage a video on our SV Sens de la Vie UTube Channel https://youtu.be/q4CBBJkBjSU
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| Sunsets |
We made passage to Scawfell Island as bad weather was
predicted. We had a good sail but the seas
were building and even in the protected “harbour” of Scawfell Island it was
blowing 30knots, (which is about 55klm per hour in land speed measurements) and
we spun on anchor all night. This resulted on us making another long day
passage to Shaw Island where we sat out the big blow for a couple of days. We
made our first tank of 200+lts of water on the way with our new water maker which
all worked brilliantly.
Some days can be quite arduous and long, our love of ocean
travelling, the light on the waves, dolphins, sea birds and spotting whales
navigating and working the sails keeps us busy. As we are now in the
Whitsundays, so many little islands and rocky outcrops make the journey
interesting.
Ancient faces emerge from the colors, shapes and shadows of rocky Headlands and small rocky island atolls. Sailing slowly and intimately past this beautiful coastline, our island home.
Menacing faces to ward us from coming nearer appear in my mind’s eye, welcoming smiles enticing our ship to come closer, a child asleep, a sea widow’s saddened expression, longingly looking out to sea for her lover to return. Visual apparitions borne from imagination. Letting the mind drift, daydreaming, and seeing the natural land and sea scapes in light, shade and colour, reimagining them into pictures in your mind of a different form.
Preparing food is a balancing act on a wobble board and I am constantly bruising myself losing my footing. It’s a challenge, however, we do eat well, small meals often. Some dishes are prepared the night before or are fork meals or soups that are prepared prior to departure and have in the freezer.
Terry also had a dental appointment in Airlie, and I had to
get my blood tests done (regular thing so Dr and specialists can monitor my
health whilst I am travelling)
Some highlights of Whitsundays
As you can see from the chart plotter we did do alot of exploring
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| A girl sometimes has to be on her own and FISH. |
Maccona Inlet is a favourite, a quieter anchorage normally no charter boats as the entry to the inlet looks tricky. Known as a shark nursery it is a peaceful well sheltered anchorage, with fishing and foraging for oysters.
Blowing a gale when we crossed over from Airlie to go to
Stonehaven. It was a cracker of a sail
doing 8 to 10 knots in big swells. After
two failed attempts to pick up a public mooring buoy bouncing up and down on
the bow sprit in a heavy swell at Stonehaven we tried to anchor. Gusts and
swell were not favourable, it was not comfortable or safe, so we up anchor.
We provided sundowner entertainment for everyone else
sitting on moorings at Stonehaven, as we swore and cursed at each other. Investment in “Marriage Saving Devices” which
essentially are blue tooth microphones and speakers, like they have in bike helmets,
as soon as I get to a major city electronic store. Its exceedingly difficult to
give hand gestures whilst holding a boat hook, grappling the large ropes
attached to these public moorings. 
Looking out for bommies and instructing pathways through reefs with hand gestures indicating a little to port or starboard and “FFS” slow down is another challenge. The Capt is 44 ft away with engine and wind noise, we both struggle in communications, instructions get lost in translation, interpretive dance moves misunderstood and perhaps some swearing and yelling.
Beautiful Nara, walks up to sacred sites and cave paintings,
great fishing and totally protected.
Whilst the water looks blue and inviting swimming is at your risk. 
Unfortunately, due to the number of boats in this area sharks have become accustomed to food scraps being thrown overboard at these busy anchorages. Absolutely, no swimming off the back of your boat. is also a shark nursery and young sharks are curious and full of bravado. They will bite to find out what you are, particularly in waters of low visibility. A nip or bite from any shark can be life changing or indeed fatal.
Hazelwood Island opposite to Whitehaven Beach: I did my first dip and dive since leaving home. It was late in the afternoon, overcast so Terry was lookout in the dingy as I drift dived over reef going with the current, video footage was difficult to capture the array of good soft corals and fish as the current was running fast around the headland fringing reef.
Tried out my wet suit for the first time, I have never bothered to have one of these before, using only stinger suits, cold water never a problem, till now. I love having a wet suit, you stay so much warmer and are better protected from coral or rock cuts and scrapes. Although I must say getting my curves into a sausage tube is an exercise in contorting my body and shoving my curves and boobs into restrictive spaces, hilarious and exhausting……………………………getting out of it requires assistance. Capt Teza, is only too keen to volunteer.
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| Sailing into Shute Harbour we just dropped our sails but it was busy |
Weather was closing in, a few wet days predicted, back to
Shaw Island for protections.
Highlight was watching a mum and baby dugong feeding next to
our boat. By day three we all smelt like
“wet dog” and wet fur seem to be stuck on everything. With weather clearing over the main islands
of Whitsundays, and making contact with a Qld Cruising member, we made passage
to Gulnare Inlet.
We have never been into Gulnare inlet as it is very shallow and you have to do a zig zag through 2 reefs that block the entrance but with careful navigation by Capt Terry we got in without hitting bottom and found a good hole.
There are no beaches or shore landings in Gulnare and the inlet goes for miles into Whitsunday Island with mangrove lined creeks.
Absolutely loved exploring these mangroves
and have fallen in love with the mangrove habitats.
There are over 30 species of mangroves in Australia and whilst most of you, like myself, vision mangroves as muddy flats lining creeks, in outer islands without main land runoffs , Gulnare Inlet had clear waters and mangroves were growing out of rocky foreshores.
The roots of the mangroves and reflections are uniquely beautiful.
The Mangrove trees seemed to be tip toeing over the water holding their leafy skirts up.
You may be thinking what happens to Floss (deckie dog) …………sometimes she goes for a ride with us on the tender but in these very protected areas of the Whitsundays she does not go to shore.
It is prohibited. By the time we departed from wandering around the islands and outer reefs , Floss had not been to shore to leave messages or smell messages for 16 days.
Floss is trained to do her business at the bow where we have a wash down pump and hose. She does fret when left alone on the boat and we normally put her down below with some music and a treat. She settles after about 10 mins and we do not leave her any more than 2 hours. We have tried to leave her on the deck, but she howls and barks if she can see us in the distance on the tender without her. It is a little bit restrictive to do land activities having the dog on board in these areas, but she has provided us with good company and funny dog moments.
We went back to Stonehaven and picked up a mooring with no issue in calmer conditions.
With weather conditions looking favourable to be out on the outer reefs, we went to Bait Reef a very popular tourist reef, for a short couple of hours to do some diving on the bommies and then headed to Hook reef which is more isolated and zoned for fishing . At Bait reef whales went past the outside of the lagoon as we were snorkelling.
This is what you call a glass out
It is quite scary and requires a good deal of concentration as you make your way into reef lagoons in the middle of the ocean. With good visibility of the water it can be very hard to judge how deep you are as you glide over reefs; they are so visible in every detail but can be up to 12 metres below you (hence the reason for the intercom ear muffs on my shopping list).
I am getting more experience at judging water colour changes, we are not novices or new to traversing reefs but all the same, it’s always an adrenaline rush when you come into waters that you have not been before. It relies on making a judgement call on bow lookout and the good navigation skills of Capt Teza.
But once anchored in a sandy spot between the reef structures that give protection from the sea swells its an incredible and amazing experience. Like being in a crystal-clear pond watching fish swim under your boat, rays and turtles and all manner of sea life.
The coral, both hard and soft, are more vivid and extensive. The Great Barrier Reef is so huge, many lifetimes would be required to explore it all.
It is a “wonder of the world” and we all have a responsibility to look after this living sea structure by not doing harm.
I am always amazed at how many tankers and carrier ships that are traversing between the mainland and reef. Australia has great shipping pilots that board these tankers and bring them into harbours safely. Shortcuts in safety of cargo and ensuring the ship complies with our Australian biohazard regulations, and that the ship is in good safe working conditions, requires constant attention by authorities.
Terry and I fish responsibly, we don't take more than we can eat.
After spending a couple of nights out to sea on the reef, winds picked up and we headed back to islands for safe anchorage visiting Blue Pearl Bay on Hayman Island, Langford Reef, Cid Harbor and Nara Inlet.
Its time to get Floss to dog friendly mainland shores.
Moving further North we headed to Gloucester Island where we relaxed and took Floss to shore for walks.
We will head for Bowen for a couple of days, fuel up before we make our way out of the Whitsunday Region and the start of our passage making adventures in Far North Queensland Waters.
Have made some short videos on Whitsundays using go pro app and posting on Facebook.............just putting together further footage I trust that you will enjoy
We are very fortunate and grateful to have these experiences that we have dreamed and planned for many years for our retirement. We remain flexible and realize that nothing in life is guaranteed ...................... we just make the very best of everyday.
