Lizard Island- Connections and Friendship - November 2020

 

Lizard Island Just paddling in the shallows watching the Sting Rays

Sens de la Vie made passage from Mackay Island towards Lizard Island we decided to pass Cooktown and visit on our return passage, as big blow was forming. Getting to a safe comfortable anchorage dictates our passage making.

We anchored overnight at South Cape Bedford. 

 

A mysterious rocky  Cape  with many caves that were beckoning to be explored, certainly on our return trips we will be revisiting.  

 

Cape Bedford has much history

This was the first Mission on the Cape York Peninsula, and became the oldest surviving mission in North Queensland. Initiated by Lutheran Staff it became a stable community with the assignment of 2 young Missionaries who stayed for 55y ears and 20 Years adding the Hope Valley Site.  The whole community was evacuated during World War 11, because of its German Missionary and Lugger connections with the Japanese.  Hope Vale has remained a cohesive community and is home fro a number of active and high profile Indigenous leaders and activists.

Recorded history also recognises the massacre of over 40 Guugu-Yimidhirr people at Cape Bedford.  A retaliation act by Authorities for the murder of two white settlers.

Anchoring in this remote area of Cape York Peninsula with its overcast skies and calm conditions, the rocky Cape Bedford shrouded in sea mist with suspended smoke  from a nearby bush fire provided an extraordinary a dramatic landscape that was  eerie to the soul. I felt a deep sensitivity to this place,  its landscape and history both Indigenous and Early European Settlers, it's history of violence, conflict and hope and remains a place of  significant  spiritual importance.

Sunrise was very eerie

  

Sailing past these capes are nautical milestones in our passage making that we get very excited about Remote wilderness that inspires with amazing landscape of rugged outcrops and rain-forest.

  Capt Teza was being most complimentary to me the following morning when we up anchor.  It took me a little while to catch on as we traversed the the coastline  of Cape Flattery. 

The loading dock at  Cape Flattery is a huge enterprise. This Cape has the world’s biggest silica mine established in 1967.  Capt Teza landed a Spanish Mackerel.  Flattery needed to be returned to him for this catch.  It is not easy to land a big fish on a moving sailing vessel and requires us to both work as a team to get these big pelagic fish landed, and processed.

Sea state was calm enough for me to process the fish and continue our passage to Lizard Island arriving just after lunch.

Processing a Fish that takes up the whole Galley Bench Space

LIZARD ISLAND

The welcome committee of about 8 black tip reef sharks deterred me from just jumping off the back of the boat in the crystal clear waters of the lagoon.

 

 

The recent incident of an attack of a large croc at Lizard Island , a staff member of the resort being the victim,  was also fresh in my mind.  You don’t expect Crocs to be so far off shore, 40 miles, on a pristine island and surrounding reef.   Latter we learnt that the large Croc had been dealt with by National Park Rangers but a small croc still remained on the island somewhere.

Waving us into harbor was the Crew of Shima.  Justine and Glen.  So excited that we finally get to meet in person.

Connection and  Sense of Belonging

A basic human instinct and need is to belong to a tribe of like minded people.

Connections and friendships of the many women in my life my Grandmothers, Mother, Aunties, my sisters, my daughters, cousins and women of my extended  family. 

Long term friendships of my school girlfriends, fellow female work colleagues and the amazing women of my community of over 30 years at Beechmont Mountain have influenced and enriched my life through their inspiring and authentic stories of life difficulties, challenges and accomplishments. 

I found a new tribe of Sailing women that I can proudly say I belong to.

I joined 18 months ago Women Who Sail Australia a sub group of a World Wide Organisation WWS ,(Women Who Sail) that has its own Magazine “Sisterhood” The group hold courses and conferences, promote authors and engage with extraordinary honesty in a social media group for members which is supportive and informative. 

A wonderful group of women who contribute with generosity of spirit, sharing stories of sailing challenges, accomplishments, ideas, frustrations, fears, advice and knowledge in an authentic and genuine manner.

One such member, is  Justine. 

Justine and I celebrating our meeting with Cocktails

 I personally friended with Justine via FB some 6 months ago so as I could communicate with her directly for advise and assistance for our passage in OZ top end,  Sailing in Gove and the Wessel islands, which Justine and her partner Glen lived, worked and sailed extensively in this area for 4 years. 

We formed a bond via messaging but had never met in person.  A modern version of a pen pal. The chance meeting in the same harbour at the same time was definitely our destiny. Two like minded women connecting. A joyous moment albeit we were both a little nervous and reserved as we got know each other in person.

Over sundowners we discussed Capt Cooks Lookout trail on Lizard island. 

 I mentioned to Justine that I was a descendant of Capt James Cooks brother, these ancestral Settlers in Australia from a village called Hinton Blewitt in the UK, I am 6th generation Australian, birth name Cook.

The lookout is where Capt Cook climbed with his senior crew to find a passage out of the reef after months at Cooktown doing repairs to the Endeavor after it hit a reef.  The reef is called Endeavour Reef and we have past it twice but hopeful one day to explore in calm sea state.

 I was pleased to arrive here at Lizard Island and absorb the history  but was not confident I could do the climb to pay homage to my ancestors

Justine exclaimed “You have to do this “

“ come with me in the morning”.

Her supportive encouragement gave me the confidence to give it a go

With my health challenges it seem am impossible task as this climb is straight up over large rocky outcrops that had carved footholds for people with long legs. Thankfully I was in a period of no RA Attacks that do cripple me and leave me exhausted, fatigued and in enormous pain.

Thinking I would probably only get a little way,  I packed a bag with my Native Foods Identification Book and sketching gear fully expecting I would be sitting under a tree while the rest of the crew reached the summit some 360 meters above sea level , a very steep climb.

 

Sailing Sisterhood motto should be “ never leave a fellow sailing woman adrift ”

Justine’s patience, understanding and kindness and in the company of our supportive DH’s, enabled me to achieve a goal of entering my name (née Cook) in the journal at Cooks Lookout on the summit.

 
A life goal I thought was not achievable made possible by kindness, generosity and connection via WWSA member Justine and my supportive Capt Teza carrying Back packs and helping me climb down rocky outcrops. A little determination by myself,  challenging my body was my mindset on this day.

The downhill climb I was most inelegant and clumsy as I bummed my way over large boulders to descend  to the shoreline. By the time I reached the beach I had Jelly legs and flopped in the water fully dressed to cool the muscles.

Taking the trek slowly up and down afforded us to explore the fauna with more detail and we had fun identifying native forage foods.  The native wild passionfruit was amazing.

Native Passion fruit

Extraordinary experiences have happened to all us in 2020, with a year of difficulties, challenges and uncertainty for women , their families and communities.

To this day Justine and myself are still connected and continue to communicate whats happening in our lives. Justine's kindness comes naturally.  I don't think Justine is fully aware or understood the enormous impact that this simple act of genuine, gracious kindness had on my life.  It was a turning point for me in my sailing adventures, not to limit or define myself by my autoimmune disease and live a life less fearful.  I am forever grateful. 

My enduring thanks to all members of WWSA for keeping it real, positive, encouraging and entertaining. Particularly in Covid restrictions periods that saw many of the Members separated from their boats, restricted to staying on the boat or unable to travel for the sailing season. Life turned upside down for many.  The supportive dialogue of these members on the FB forums is to be congratulated. 

The sharing of  knowledge and experiences gives balance and perspective  on living life on a yacht. I learn something every day from this group of women.
My sailing experience has been enriched by their  storytelling and  helpful advice. 

The collective of like minded women sharing stories and knowledge which resonates to the very core of my longing soul to be less fearful and more courageous and to take leaps of faith to  discover and explore this amazing coast line of Australia by way of living on a sail boat.

An inspirational community of Women Who Sail Australia that forms a bond of Sisterhood.

The snorkeling at Lizard Island is amazing, sea state once again was not the greatest, but I managed to find Clown fish and some large clams in a small protected bay.  Capt Teza my escort close by as lookout,  grateful for his patience in the hot sun paddling around on the tender caring for his wife’s safety. On this occasion it was a good 2 hours.

 I love being back in the water,  this exercise is very gentle on my RA impacted joints whilst giving me a good workout.  The currents and choppy seas, tidal changes can make snorkeling hard work as you weave yourself around coral caves and bommies.  

I am mindful not to cut my self as I am immunity compromised and a small coral cut can lead to a nasty infection very quickly.  The wet suit in such warm waters is sometimes a little constricting but it does protect me.  The small punctures and tears already on the wetsuit is evidence of my curiosity as I dive around and under coral and rock outcrops. 

Sometimes I come across surprises (creatures of the sea that sheltered in the outcrops) that take my breath away ………………….like literally,  sucking in water via my snorkel.  The reality is that I am in their territory and have to be  mindful not to invade the sanctuary with any aggression or harm.

I am slowly getting use to the small and big reef sharks, learning identification of different sharks and being shark wise to movements that tell you they are in an agitated heightened state because of my presence…………….. but to be honest the bloody music of the movie Jaws still plays in my head. 

So I am fearful at times but that's probably a good thing not to be complacent and remain very aware of the environment I am in.

Lizard Island  Resort and the research Center , at the time of writing this blog due to Covid were closed.  We will be returning in 2021 with the hope that these facilities will be welcoming yachties.